Travel Days, Arrival, Split and Environs

May 23, 2023

Ferrying to Split from Frankfurt basically took all day. Our first flight left about noon and went to Munich, where we changed planes for a flight to Split. We arrived in Split about 4PM and had a driver take us to our apartment which was located close to the old area of the city. In the early evening, we sat outside at a bar located in the ancient Peristyle near the cathedral and bell tower in the old city center and got the flavor of the place. It was pretty crowded, even in May.

Our routing to Croatia, 6,283 miles.

We found a nice cocktail bar located in the Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace, and sat on the steps having a beer while watching the crowds of tourists.  We enjoyed it and came back the next night.  Photo above is the view.  So is the next photo.  These Roman-clad fellows posed for photos with tourists for tips.  Below that is a map of the sights we saw in and around Split.

May 24, 2023

We visited the green market outside the walls of the old city on our way to breakfast. Our breakfast was at a restaurant inside Diocletian’s palace. After breakfast, we visited the treasury museum (former Temple of Cybele) of the Split cathedral (St. Dominus), and the baptistery (former Temple of Jupiter from about 300AD, converted in the 8th Century). Then we picked up our rental car and took it to the garage at our apartment. Our touring was affected by the loss of a day in Split, and we had originally planned to take a drive today, but we had to change that plan and were unable to visit Krka National Park. 

After getting the car, we returned to the old city and visited the Cathedral of St Domnius. The building was originally Diocletian’s mausoleum. Then we climbed the 183 steps to the top level of the Bell Tower which was built later, about 12th century, in Gothic style. Along the way, we paused to look at the views of the area. Then we strolled through other Roman era ruins before exiting the Palace through the Iron Gate to admire Narodni Trg, the Old Town Pjaca. 

The next photo is detail of the beautiful choir in the Cathedral.

And this next photo this is the Vestibul of the Palace.

We had lunch at a place inside the Roman palace, then took an Uber to the Ivan Meštrović Gallery. Meštrović was an early 20th Century sculptor, and one of the most important of all Croatian artists. Some of his sculptures were influenced by Rodin; he also had his own distinctive style. The museum is in an impressive building, which served as Meštrović’s residence a century ago. We then walked a short distance to Kaštelet Chapel, located in an olive grove, which the artist decorated. The 16th century building displays 28 wood carvings he made from 1916 to 1953. 

After that, we got our rental car and drove about a half hour to the outskirts of Split to see Roman ruins at Salona. 

On our way to dinner in the old city that evening, we walked through the fourth and most impressive of the entrances to Diocletian’s palace, the Golden Gate, which has a monumental statute of Gregory of Nin sculpted by Meštrović, below. 

We then drove a half hour to the town of Trogir, another sight from Game of Thrones. Trogir’s old city is on an island, and it is another UNESCO site. We visited the beautiful cathedral, dating back to the 13th century. We walked around and saw the city hall, a Benedictine monastery, a couple of other churches and the 15th century fortress. We had a nice lunch, seaside, and then returned to Split. 

Back in Split, we tried to visit the City Museum, but it was closed for renovation. Instead, we toured the basement of Diocletian’s Palace. We had our first ice cream of the trip since it was a warm day, and then walked through the Venetian–era part of the town. Here are a few last photos of Split.